Thursday, August 29, 2013

A Happy Return to Rio

It was weird to come back to Rio this week; it didn't feel as hectic, frazzled, loud, smelly, and confused as it felt when I left. My husband, on the other hand, was having a BRioD. (A bad Rio day) when he picked us up at the airport which didn't take away from the happiness of finding each other all together again. And I know BRioDs well, so no need to say sorry to me, honey. It was nice to come home and realize that I was coming home, not back to "that country I have to live in, but can't wait to get back home" home.

Not that anything has changed in the 12 days I've been gone, the path to the beach is still covered in dog shit, and the traffic is still insane. But thank goodness for Conceicao, my happy-always-smiling cleaning lady who showed up to deal with my mountain of post-holiday laundry and a sunny, slightly windy, fresh day to ease back into the groove of things. I rode my bike to drop the kid at school who was a little reluctant to rejoin class. As I walked away from the school, I heard the whole class cheer a loud warm welcome to my boy who apparently was away too long in toddler time. I ran into two friends on the way home and caught up with them and got my own cheerful welcome back. When I picked up the kid at lunch, Miss Carla, his teacher told me that the boy had told her he was not interested in Canada anymore, and that he liked Brazil better! Distance makes the heart grow fonder, right?

By the afternoon, I became dizzy from exhaustion, I guess I haven't gotten over the long sleepless night spent sitting upright in an airplane torture chair with a man snoring next to me, and another with serious armpit odor in front of me. Cartoons to the rescue! And I went to bed for a sweet 20 minutes until the boy got sick of the television and came to jump on my face. At least I had recuperated enough to head out to replenish the empty fridge.

The stars must have been aligned because a million things were due to go wrong on my short trip to the market, which usually happens on a typical Rio day, but didn't. I didn't get stuck in traffic for 20 minutes 2 blocks from the store while the kid screamed for a box of raisins I didn't bring. I didn't forget my pin number for my credit card. I didn't get charged for parking, thankfully, because I had forgotten to get cash from the bank and generally parking only takes cash. I didn't run out of gas before getting to the gas station. With no cash to tip the attendant, I found that the station had a bank machine that worked with my card and gave me money. The teller took my large bill without complaining and gave me change. The charge went through, I tipped the attendant and didn't hit any random traffic jam on my way home. THAT WAS AMAZING and a very un-BRiod.

After a quick play in the playground, a messy homemade pizza dinner, a glass of wine and running after a wet toddler through the house with a towel, I crashed into bed. I'm back. I'm home.




A Getaway to Nova Scotia

I'm jogging along the river with the sun shinning through the maple trees and the spider webs. Two bluejays startle me flying off through the bush while a squirrel whistles from a tall branch, and suddenly I see a bright green tuft of grass swimming against the current in the river. A beaver! I whisper to myself not quite believing it. I run faster to catch up to it as it turns into the current. Running through some fallen pine cones, hoping I won't twist my ankle, I notice the creature's long thin tail. A river otter! Maybe not as exciting as a beaver, but still a treat to see.

The train rumbles by with a long tow of multi-coloured containers on flatbed wagons and I hear it too-toot-ing as it goes across the bridge. As I haul my tired body up the super steep hill back to my brother's purple house, I unhook a furry black and orange stripped caterpillar off my shoulder and pass it along to a leaf on a tree bordering someone's driveway. The street is quiet with a mix of heritage homes and newer properties with large lawns, driveways and garages. If I peek around in the back yards, I see clotheslines full of reusable diapers and family laundry.

The screen door slams as my kid runs outside barefooted with his three cousins in tow. Time to push the toy tractor around on the street or turn on the sprinkler that grand-maman set up yesterday afternoon. Uncle Julien comes out with a mug of coffee in one hand and a peanut butter toast in the other. He walks over to the hockey net in the driveway and without a word, all the kids run over and grab a stick. It's a very quiet street, so it's rare that we have to scream out "car!". 


I put up my feet on the veranda railing, sit down in a chair and enjoy a second cup of coffee. Today's a good day to drive along the coast and see the picturesque-postcard perfect fishing villages dotting the Atlantic coast. The century old, brightly coloured wooden homes stand out like a fantasy among the rocks and stunted pine trees while the wind and the fog blows through the bagpiper's kilt. The tourists pay the piper throwing some bills in the hat as they pass, climbing carefully over the rocks in their "comfortable walking shoes" to take pictures of the lighthouse barely visible in the fog. Some of them wander down to the shops to buy watercolours of boats and other maritime scenery, wind chimes, handmade ceramic mugs or lobster fridge magnets. We do the same thing, eating our snack behind a rock to avoid the wind and enjoying the view.



We pile back into the car and stop down the road at a restaurant for plates of grilled cheese sandwiches, fish and chips, and lobster rolls. A pack of Chinese tourists are excitingly buying souvenirs at the counter while they argue about who is going to pay the bill. We finish our meal with ice cream in a cone sitting on the edge of the dock at the end of the parking lot. The fog has lifted and we see islands in the bay, stacks of lobster traps on the beach and seaweed waving at us in the waves. A dad and his boy who were eating lobster rolls next to us in the restaurant come out and jump in their boat to go back home, revving the engine while I wipe up ice cream on the faces of the little ones.  Time to go home.

We doze off in the car, listening to the CBC on the radio, and watching the bushes and trees blur along the highway. We pass the strip-malls, the big box stores and we know we are almost home. Just in time for a glass of Pinot Noir on the veranda before the sun goes down.

Tomorrow we're off to the lake to smell the dry pine needles and throw our bodies in the warm, dark un-salty water. We'll sit on the dock waiting for our turn on the canoe looking out at the shimmering water, at the little cabins poking their roofs out of the trees on the other side of the lake, and at the kids in their life jackets throwing inner tubes off the edge of the dock. We'll eat corn on the cob brought in a pot wrapped in a blanket to keep them warm, granola bars, avocado sandwiches and orange slices while sitting on a mildewy blanket great-grand-maman made. Some brave ones will use the outhouse or pee behind a tree. We'll jump back in the lake a few more times before heading back along the bushy highway, with the sun lying low in the sky shinning on the side of our faces and making us fall asleep. The CBC will keep on playing on the radio, the small communities all strung along the road welcoming us and tempting us to stop next time for a visit at the dairy farm or in an antique store. We'll only stop for more corn.




Back at home, up the huge hill, and into the driveway, the kids all wake up as we stop the cars. Time to play Lego while the adults serve themselves a beer from the tap my brother installed in his garage. And so it goes, the lazy days of summer as I remember them as a child, and thanks to my brother and his family, I get to relive again with my son. And as an unknown someone once said: Canada is a giant park, with parks in it." And that's how I feel as I think about my return to Rio de Janeiro, that I've been playing in a giant park for the last week and I will miss the peaceful, wilderness of my homeland.



Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Humor Goes a Long Way

It's easy to find lots of differences when you live in another country, and some days those differences make you crazy, but on others, you have to laugh. Here is famed Canadian comedian Russell Peters, who finds ways to connect us across cultures. He's talking about Louis Vuitton handbags;  a brand Brazilians cherish a lot too. Ah, so different, yet so the same.


On the days that my brain cannot handle anymore Portuguese, I try to think about all the people out there who struggle with English.






Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Time Warp in Brazil

Sometimes living in Brazil feels like you've suddenly been transported through time back to the 70's.  A prime example is when I saw a dad driving his car with his 8 month old on his knee. Grandma was in the back with the toddler on her lap as he waved his arms out the window. When I was 3, the seat belt legislation passed in Quebec with highway signs reminding drivers: "Au Quebec, on s'attache." and I still remember getting into cars that didn't even have seatbelts. I'm not sure what the seatbelt law is here in Brazil, I'm sure there is one because every time I leave the Barra Shopping parking lot, the ticket dispenser machine reminds us to put our seat belts on : "Sempre use o seu cinto de seguranca" , but at times I guess, like many laws in Brazil, it's creatively not followed.

The absence of people of all ages riding bikes without bike helmets reminds me of when I was a kid. Just the other day, we were driving back from a restaurant when I saw a man riding with his wife side-saddle on the center bar. It didn't really faze me until I saw that she was holding her newborn! The first commercially successful bike helmet, a polystyrene hard-shell, the Bell Biker, was only first produced in 1975 and the mandatory helmet laws in Canada didn't pass until the mid 90's, early 2000's, so our feathered mullets and 80's hairsprayed updos were free to move (or not) in the wind for a long time before we started to get fined.

Another time warp back to the 70's is when you ask for the cocktail menu in a restaurant and all they have are tequila sunrises, sidecars and mint juleps. With the super large selection of tropical fruits available here you'd think the bartenders would be going nuts on inventing new drinks, but no. I suppose you could bring your own mini bottle of tequila, rum or gin to the local juice place and make your own afternoon aperitif. 

It's winter time now, apparently. Which means it's 21C when you wake up and 33C by noon. Where I come from, we call that summer. But here it means it 's time to wear pants, turtleneck sweaters and leather boots. Oh, and have fondue. Fondue? Yup. It's the thing. Weren't fondue parties fashionable way back when I was 3? You know it was big in the 70's because the sticks have that 70's je-ne-sais-quoi everything must be brown and orange color combination. The last time I had fondue, mind you, was about 4 years ago, in Canada, on a snowy cold night after a long day of cross-country skiing with my family! My Brazilian family-go figure.

What about the weird, white, knee high exercise socks and the spandex exercise body suits a lot of ladies wear in the gym? Reminiscent of leg warmers much? Or the stripped tube socks we wore when we were kids along with our terrycloth shorts and tubetops? LEOTARDS, people! Wasn't that a fashion atrocity? But the Brazilians keep the flame burning.

Enchanted Vintage



And to top it all off, seems like every time I turn on the radio in the car, to the English station, I hear "More Than a Feeling" by Boston or "Summer Breeze" by Seals and Crofts


1970's Time Warp, I tell you. 



Thursday, August 1, 2013

Where are Rio's Hipsters?

Where are the hipsters in Rio? There are so easy to spot in Vancouver, but here in Barra, I don't think they exist. If I do an internet search for "Brazilian hipster", I get a groovy tune or frilly underwear.

 


If I do the same for Vancouver hipster, I get a scary article about an overwhelming amount of casting videos received for a potential reality television show entitled "The Real Hipsters of Vancouver". Holy smokes, I thought I was missing them but I may be wrong. I might not be missing them as much as I think, especially after seeing the plethora of scary hipster information available online. Ahhhhh! I'm getting sucked through the internet web of stupidity and I can't get out!

Recently, I thought I had spotted something different; a style appropriation from the past a-la-hipster . I started to notice an interesting trend aside from the 80's aerobics white knee high workout socks; thin, gold framed glasses that droop down the cheeks. I kept thinking I'd last seen them on some actor on the Rockford Files. A little more searching on the net and here's what I found. The scary glasses are Ray Bans! I suppose they are "classic aviator" glasses, hence the feeling I get that I've seen them before, but I just can't get used to them. And now that I've noticed them, I spot them everywhere!

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtb5fVy93FQ1kPmAruViUKMQlIxCxnMm74h49RZhfjE4HUD8MJ-Vd4Z_odCN2GJ7zYwdXyTvCuK8Xe4uW1r3drvTZPSlZ67_Z_CyUqwMAySY9S2zqHK-vi4d6SIJOBS8gZ89sIOQquwDqo/s1600/295101_178122562323845_958931297_n.jpg

I think I just miss Vancouver's "differentness". It's not that we're fashionable, we're not, but we're varied. I miss the Asian ladies with their face visors, stylish hairdressers, mommas in yoga wear, teenagers in droopy jogging pants and brown Uggs, bright saris and turbans, beggars in dirty layers, gortex shoe protector wearing bike commuters, recycled Value Village wear etc... Heck! All the different faces of our multicultural population.

So to feel a little closer to home, I head to Starbucks for a strangely sweet iced cappuccino and I people watch. As I sit down, I look up and see yet another woman wearing the droopy cheek gold Ray Bans! Arghhhhh! Just as I'm about to sign off on this post, I find "In case you didn't think there weren't hipsters in Rio. Guess I was wrong.

Cat Favelas and Bunny Projects

Along the canal behind my house there are randomly placed cardboard boxes behind bushes and trees. At first, I thought it was just garbage, but then one fresh morning after at night rain, I was overwhelmed by a strong, damp smell of cat food, and I realized the boxes were makeshift shelters for the abandoned cat population of our neighborhood: "a cat favela!". As this dawned on me, the cats came out of their hiding spots and leered at me as if I had woken them up from a nap and now they were mad. Abandoned cats don't look particularly different than their more pampered neighbors, but you get this feeling that they're tougher. It's something in the way they walk, their slow swagger. Maybe I'm imagining it, but if you saw a good dozen of them all coming toward you, you might think of running away. Of maybe not, maybe you'd be the one to bring a cardboard box and some kibble. My mom once told me about how her dad got rid of unwanted kittens; I'll leave it to your imagination, but I guess people don't have that kind of strength anymore and simply leave them to cross to the canal.

Cardboard box cat house

A bit more upscale cat house

Cat mansion with a deck, toy and shed

Abandoned cat
This reminds me of the "rabbit projects" at Jericho Beach in Vancouver. The bunnies too have a swagger in their hops. Having lost their primitive survival instincts generations ago, they multiplied and formed a gang. They act tough,as tough as a fluffy bunny with floppy ears can.

Jericho beach bunny

Wild animals in large numbers like flocks of birds or schools of fish evoke feelings of freedom and beauty, but pets? I get an overall body itch just thinking about it. I don't know maybe it's just me. Doing a little digging around about cat colonies, I read about the Canadian Parliamentary Cats. Even heard of them? Look at their digs! They were built to resemble the homes of settlers along the St-Lawrence river. In 2003, there were 30 cats that were cared for by volunteers at the cost of $6000 a year. They were spayed or neutered and slowly less and less kittens were born. By 2013, the sanctuary was shut down.

Alright, sorry to abruptly stop writing about this, my cat lover friends, but that's it for cats for me. I never thought I would be writing so much about cats considering I'm allergic to them and I consider myself now a capivara woman!

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e0/Canadian_Parliamentary_Cats_-_Rene_Chartrand.jpg
Parliamentary Cat Sanctuary