Monday, September 30, 2013

Pasteis- The Brazilian Pocket Food and Caldo de Cana

What is it with food that's wrapped in dough? The world loves it. Just off the top of my head, I can think of famous "pockets" such as the empanada, pierogi, vereniki, samosa, gyoza, spring roll, calzone, steam bun, spanakopita, pot sticker, and Cornish pasty. Brazilians are not left behind without their own version of a pocket food, the pastel.

The pastel is made of a simple white dough which you can make yourself or buy ready-made at the store. On the inside, the pastel is filled with meat or cheese.  My father-in-law buy dough at the "feira" (street market) and makes his own at home, but I think most people don't bother and simply eat it freshly made at the market.

Filling the pastel

Frying until golden

Cooling on the steps
Enjoying after a play in the kiddie pool


Here's a photo of the locals enjoying pasteis at the market stand every Friday. I thought it was hilarious that the stand is called "ICHIBAN"! Like the instant Japanese ramyen noodles? Folks love to sit on plastic stools, enjoying their freshly fried pasteis and drinking "caldo de cana". Caldo de cana is sugar cane juice. They take the cane, shove into a machine that looks like an old fashioned laundry machine with rollers and sounds like an rusty old lawn-mover, and squeeze the liquid out of the cane. The light green juice tastes like you think it will taste; liquid sugar. For me, one sip and it feels like my teeth are melting and my heart is about to jump out of my chest, so I don't drink it, but Brazilians LOVE it. Geraldo recently said: " Ah, I can't believe I waited this long before I had a pastel and drank caldo de cana, now I feel like I've finally arrived in Brazil."

Friday, September 13, 2013

A Fortune Cookie is an Object- Adventures at the Post Office.

Oh, you know me and the mail.

I cleverly tried to reuse bottle caps by inserting a letter to my husband inside two of them and sealing the whole thing with a Zip tie. I wrote my husband's work address on one side and the stamps on the other. Like a kind of fortune cookie a-la-snail-mail.



Mailing my fortune cookie was going to be a bit of a challenge, I suspected. First of all, unfortunately I couldn't slip it in the mailbox and hope that the mail folks just took care of it, because mailboxes here only have a thin hole to insert a letter and no drawer like in Canada. So I had to take it to the post office along with a soap I was sending to a mommy friend in need of pick-me-up and a book for another friend.

Here is a rundown of the conversation with the teller, translated in English.

-I'd like to send this book to Canada, how much will it cost?
-24R.
-Great. I'll send it. I'd also like to send this.
-What is it?
-A soap.
-A soap?
-Yes, a soap.
-A soap is an object.
-Yes, it is.  ( I now have a weird look on my face and the teller turns to her co-worker and yells loudly:
-Soap is an object?
-Yes. It's an object! Her co-worker yells back.
-Okay. It's an object. You have to fill out this form. (She hands me a three page form that reminds me of the days when we had to fill our taxes by hand)
-Okay, I change my mind. I don't want to send the soap. But what about the book? Isn't it an object too? Why don't I need to fill a form for that?
-(insert an incomprehensible fast Portuguese answer here)
-Okay. Fine. I would also like to send this. (I hand her my fortune cookie, bracing myself....)
-What's this?
-It's a letter.
-A letter. Um... let me see.
(She turns to her co-worker and yells loudly again, waving my fortune cookie in front of all the people in line behind me.)
-Is this an object?
-Yes. It's an object. Her co-worker answers again loudly.
-Okay, it's an object. You have to put it in an envelope.
-But the address is already on there with the stamps! (I plead with my eyes working my "just-humor-me-foreigner face")
-No. You have to put it in an envelope.
-But the envelope is the caps.
-No. You have to put it in an envelope.
-Okay then, I say disappointingly. I won't mail it.
-That's 24R.

I pay her and try not to look back at the folks behind me with their "objects" neatly packed in envelopes and their 3 page forms neatly filled out. Yes. I am a foreigner. Move along! There's nothing to see here!

Stay tuned for more adventures at the Post Office!


Thursday, September 12, 2013

Gil, The Smiling Toe Running Man, and Other Regulars

Every weekday I take my boy to school by bike or on foot. We use the beach cycle path for about a kilometer and our routine includes seeing our neighborhood regulars. Unfortunately, it's not easy to take pictures of people who are simply going about their business, but I thought I'd write about them.

I park my bike in the underground parking lot, and the ramp to get out is super steep. I put the bike on the lowest gear, and I have to really concentrate on my legs to get to the top without having to push the bike half way up. The kid, comfortably seated in his chair, doesn't really get how hard this is to do, but the security guards at the gate sure do! They cheer me on loudly every time I get to the top without putting my feet down!

As we ride the "doggie pooh path" toward the beach, I pass men jogging barefoot (yuck) and carrying their surfboards for a pre-work ride with the waves. What a way to wake up!

By the main pedestrian crossing to the beach, there is a civic traffic controller who wears a completely fluorescent city-issued outfit who stands every morning in the traffic with his whistle. Thank goodness for him. He directs both pedestrians and commuters and I'm sure has prevented countless injuries and fatalities.

There is older bald man who wears silver, mirrored aviator sunglasses who runs on the beach every morning in his speedo and fluorescent running shoes.  He wouldn't stand out that much if he didn't run on the tip of his toes as if he was barefoot and the sidewalk was burning hot and if he didn't have a super shinny white perma-smile on his face. He makes me smile.

At certain times of the year, lifeguard recruits train along the beach by running army-style on the cycle path while yelling out army type calls. These fine bodied men in black speedos and red tank-tops make for delicious eye candy first thing in the morning. I almost find myself almost cat-calling. Yow-zee!

There's a short, fat lady with frizzy hair who parks her ancient rusted car by the kid's school. She's the local Starbucks. She brings out white plastic stools and serves coffee and homemade cake from the trunk of her car. All the neighborhood workers congregate there and talk; doormen, gardeners, construction workers, and hotel workers. What a simple way to connect with others.

The school doorman/kid wrangler/traffic controller/greeter, Gil, is there standing by the red metal door of the school. He is indispensable. The school and two others are on a dead-end, residential street which is narrow, and requires that cars face each other down to decide who is going to get by, with a guard gate on one end and a boat launch on the other. Plus there is a entrance/exit for large construction vehicles that pull in and out without any notice in a giant cloud of dust. Not to mention, the moms on bicycles, pedestrians with their surfboards, nannies with strollers, dogs, the frizzy haired cake lady, the working parents trying to park and drop off their kids, other drivers who park on the sidewalk, the highschool kids that throw almonds at each other while running across the street and the fact that there isn't really a sidewalk makes this morning adventure very "exciting". Did I mention, that the school doorman is indispensable? Again another dedicated hard working person who surely has prevented a many school drop-off disaster.

On another note, sometimes after I drop off the kid, I jog on the quieter residential streets near the school. I see other doormen come out on the sidewalk to sweep the street in front of the apartment buildings. All I hear is my breath, the birds and the swishing of their brooms. It's beautiful.

At lunch hour when I come back to get my boy, I ride though the cloud of construction dust while holding my breath and see some construction workers sleeping in the shade of the trees on the boulevard. Others run across the street in their wet shorts to join them after a refreshing dip in the ocean. Now that's what I call a lunch break!

And back along the beach we go! We might even pass the " Smiling Toe Running Man" again! 


Gil, the "indispensable' school doorman

Monday, September 9, 2013

Adventures in Learning Portuguese

It seems unfathomable that I still can't find a Portuguese class even now that I live in Rio de Janeiro! As a learner of this fine Latin language, I feel like I'm always the better tennis player with partners that lob every other ball over the fence. I want to help out my fellow learner, but I won't perfect my backhand if I'm always with beginners. I've sat in numerous college night classes with excited people on their way to Rio for holidays. And how proactive of them to attend and learn how to say, "I would like a non-smoking room with a double bed, please."! But, after many hours among them, I started to resent that the little energy I could muster up after a long day at work was being spent waiting for them to catch up to my level.

I've also hired a plethora of "tutors". Notice the quotation marks. Most of them spent a good majority of the "lesson" talking about Brazil's culture. Is it necessary for me to know that in Brazilian apartments, the master bathroom is called a "suite"? Just recently, the owner of a school invited me to sit in on a free class, where I wasted a good chunk of my morning reviewing the alphabet and repeating over and over again, I live in Rio de Janeiro. "Eu moro no Rio de Janeiro, Eu moro no Rio Rio de Janeiro, Eu moro no Rio de Janeiro." I talked to the woman when I had a chance to get out the class, and re-iterated that I was not a beginner! But didn't you like the class? She asked. It's hard to tell, I told her, when it's not suited to my level, and repeating sentences for an hour and half doesn't really give me a clear picture of what you could offer me. I left disappointed even though she promised to call me if she could find intermediate students to make a group class.

So what has worked?

I once took a university course at UBC that was absolutely awesome. I had to convince my work to let me off early so that I could rush there and attend, but it was worth arriving out of breath and sweaty while the other students sauntered in lazily. This class was like playing tennis with Andre Agassi because the majority of the students were Spanish speakers and wanted an easy "A". (I don't blame them, I did the same when I was in university; peppering my class schedule with French classes to ease my heavy course load.) So that in combination with a teacher who had very high expectations of the number of new vocabulary words we could cram in our heads in one week, made for rapid progress and a sense of actually getting somewhere. I loved it! There's nothing like the pressure of quizzes, tests and oral presentations to push you forward. Unfortunately, the following term the class was scheduled at a time that made it impossible for me to attend, and I had to give it up. Back to night classes with the tourists....

Another successful experience was during a vacation in Rio with my husband. He had to work for a few weeks before we could head off to the beaches of the North East, so I enrolled in a class in downtown Rio. I happily walked to the metro and got on, holding my bag tightly against my chest as crowds of people pushed more crowds into the subway car. I had no need to reach for a pole, as I was being held up by the tight proximity of my fellow commuters. Several stops later, sweat rolling down my back and through a few scary alleys, I made it! The small school tested my level right away and popped me in a class with 4 other foreign students. Much like my course at the university, this morning class was just right for me. I learned a lot, was held accountable for my learning and spent my afternoons walking the streets of downtown Rio practicing what I had learned. By the end of two weeks, I visited my in-laws and to my surprise I could actually understand the topic of conversation at dinner.

It seems that group classes work best for me, but unfortunately I'm having a hard time finding one in Barra da Tijuca. It seems that the majority of foreigners who live here are beginners and when they attain a certain level at which they can get by, they stop talking classes. But I won't give up! I'm returning the few balls that make it over the net by meeting my tutor and doing online exercises. Eu nao vou desistir!


Monday, September 2, 2013

Where's the "BIRD"?

If you find yourself winding through the "Floresta da Tijuca", which is a one way road that starts at the back of the Pedra de Gavea in Itanhanga and comes out in the neighborhood of Tijuca, make sure you play this new version of "Where's Waldo". Only I call this game "BIRD!" Actually, the bird's name is Clessio, but I prefer yelling BIRD! He's graffiti artist Igor Nunes' pet and is part of a movement against trafficking and trade of protected animals. Though it's not clear exactly how this bird tag does this unless you are willing to look him up on the web.  I noticed him as soon as we arrived in Rio and read about him on Eatrio. Here's a video of Igor in action.

BIRD!
BIRD!
BIRD!
BIRD!
BIRD!
I had to stop screaming BIRD because the driver of the car, my husband, didn't find the game as amusing as I and my in-laws in the back of the car. But it was fun while it lasted. A lot more fun than trying to decipher the pixacao , (tagging) which disfigures the city. On this flicker page, the photographs seem to attempt to beautify tagging and even though journalist Joao Wainer, explains well the origins of pixacao, the taggers who are maginalized and the risks they take, I still have a hard time finding beauty in this type of "art", compared to the BIRD, even though this yellow guy in a trucker hat really is "tagged" in a lot of places....